Morro Negrito

Archive for March 2008

Surfguide Bob “the Santa” Moe logs another February at Morro Negrito

March 25, 2008, 10:37 pm

Our annual visit from surfguide Bob Moe at Morro Negrito Surf Camp. He escapes the cold of Washington State to visit us in the warm waters of Panama during February and March. Here is his story in his own words:
Surfing Santa in the off season

Got back from Panama a little over a week ago. It was a 5-week stay and was another experience of a lifetime. It has taken a little time to get from physically being at home to mentally being back as well. My heart is always surfing around the world even if responsibility is trying to get in the way. I will get some things done on the farm and then it will be back to the beach in Oregon.The attached picture was taken at Leftovers on the island of Outer Silva about 10 kilometers from Morro Negrito Surf Camp. There are 4 breaks on the island and various snorkeling opportunities for the non-surfers or people who need a break. There is a right (Nestles Crunch) which picks up a deep-water swell and breaks over a rock/coral table platform. I mention this as on the 3rd day I was there, the waves were breaking in the 10’ plus range with at least a 6’ throw to the lip. I was paddling back out 3’ behind another surfer and got caught in the throw. He made it and I did not. It pitched me over the falls backwards and held me down for a long time in a lot of bubbles. I did not hit anything, although when I saw the magnificent Shuler epoxy surfboard that Lanny made for me to surf in Panama, was in 2 pieces. It was a day of mourning after that. The other surf guides offered me a short-gun type board (Danny’s board) as a replacement. This meant that I was going to have some short-board experience for the remainder of the stay. Got the hang of it, although there is still the long boarder in me. The other 3 breaks are lefts. P Land, P2 and what is leftover is called Leftovers. There were a few days when P1 & P2 were scary and Leftovers was in the 12’ to 15’ range. I gave it a try and had my board leash come off my ankle and had to swim into the rocky shore. That was all the energy I had for that day. There were other days when the surf was 8’ to 12’. This picture was taken 2 weeks ago, was voted the wave of the day and is a true Monday Morning Wave.The guests, cooks and staff made this a “time to remember, always”. I wish this experience to all of you and thank everyone who made this happen.Have a great day,BobP. S. As a side note, I was able to come back 1st class on both flights from Panama City, Panama to Seattle, Washington, USA. The food and accommodations were fitting end to this journey. As good as the airline was the cooks at camp did it better job and their meals tasted superior. Please let them know.

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